Sunday 23 March 2014

Alternatives to animal testing of cosmetic ingredients

12 days ago was the one-year anniversary of complete prohibition of animal testing for cosmetics in the EU.

A quick background summary:
2003 -  the Directive 2003/15/EC introduced provisions in relation into animal testing into the Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC
2004 - animal testing for cosmetic products was prohibited
2009 - animal testing for cosmetic ingredients was prohibited
2009 - marketing of cosmetic products containing ingredients which have been tested on animals was prohibited (testing was still allowed for repeated-dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity and toxicokinetics)
2013 - complete ban on marketing of finished cosmetic products & ingredients in cosmetic products which were tested in animals for cosmetics purposes (even if no alternative tests are available!)

How, then, do scientists assess the safety of chemicals without testing them on animals?
Check out this video by the EURL ECVAM (the European Union Reference Laboratory for Alternatives to Animal Testing).



Saturday 26 October 2013

Mercury in mascara

Is there mercury in your mascara?

16 days ago, the United Nations’ Minamata Convention for Mercury was signed by about 140 countries. Among other measures to reduce the use of mercury, this global treaty specifies that the production and import of some products containing mercury will be banned.

As reported by Scientific American

‘Under a new global treaty that limits the use of mercury, some light bulbs will be banned. Some batteries, thermometers and medical devices will be banned too. But mascara is exempt.’

The reason is then explained:
‘But mascara and other eye makeup is exempt because “no effective safe substitute alternatives are available” and “the intention is not to cover cosmetics, soaps or creams with trace contaminants,” the treaty says.’

Not surprisingly, this news has sparked quite an outrage. What? Do you mean we have been applying mercury around our eyes? How can this continue to be allowed?!

So… Why does mascara contain mercury?
Some mascara products (as well as other products such as eyedrops & vaccines) may contain mercury in the form of thiomersal, which is used as a preservative. Thiomersal is an organomercury compound which contains approximately 50% mercury by weight.

Chemical structure of thiomersal
The US FDA allows mercury in eye cosmetics at a limit of 65 parts per million (which is 0.0065%, in case anyone was wondering).

As a preservative, thiomersal inhibits the growth of bacteria and fungi which can spoil the products and also lead to nasty eye infections.

What harm do mercury compounds cause?
The world became aware of the toxicity of methylmercury in the late 1950s, when the dumping of methylmercury into Minamata Bay, Japan by a local petrochemical and plastics company resulted in widespread consumption of mercury-contaminated fish and shellfish. The consequences were devastating. Methylmercury proved to be a neurotoxin (affecting the nerves and brain) and led to illness, foetal abnormalities and death.

Currently, the US Environmental Protection Agency has set a reference of 0.1 µg/kg/day as a guideline for safe exposure levels to methylmercury.

Much less is known about thiomersal, which is a derivative of ethyl mercury. An animal study by Magos et al. in 1985 directly compared the toxicity of ethyl- versus methylmercury in adult male and female rats. Ethylmercury was concluded to be less neurotoxic than methylmercury. Regardless, due to the lack of data, the FDA considers ethyl- and methyl-mercury to be equivalent in its risk evaluation.

Is it possible to avoid mascara and eye products containing mercury?
According to the article by Scientific American,
‘The FDA does not require ingredients that comprise less than 1 percent of a cosmetic product to be divulged on the label, so a lot more products may have thimerosal and consumers would never know, said Kristin Adams, chief executive officer of Afterglow Cosmetics, a natural and organic cosmetic company.’

This afternoon, I did a quick survey of the ingredient labels of a few mascara products at the drugstore. Some products contained phenoxyethanol and parabens (both are preservatives) as ingredients. Some other products did not specify any preservatives on their labels. Does this mean what I think it means? Clearly, all mascaras SHOULD contain preservatives (to prevent eye infections), but the preservatives are not necessarily listed on the label because their concentrations are very low. Kristin Adams was right.

To put things into perspective,
There are many other possible ways that we could be exposed to mercury. For example, eating contaminated fish (which is the most significant source of ingestion-related mercury exposure), taking some Traditional Chinese Medicine preparations, or even accidentally breaking a lab thermometer. With the signing of the Minamata Convention for Mercury treaty, we can hope to look forward to a reduction of mercury contamination in the environment.


Personally, I don’t put on makeup very often (much to the dissatisfaction of hubby), so I am not fearful for my health right now. However, I do believe (and hope) that the increased awareness among consumers will drive the cosmetic industry to use safer alternatives as preservatives for their products. 

References:
1. http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=in-the-public-eye-mascara-exempt-from-mercury-treaty
2. http://www.fda.gov/BiologicsBloodVaccines/SafetyAvailability/VaccineSafety/UCM096228

Monday 30 September 2013

Stem Cells in Skincare

What are stem cells?
Stem cells are undifferentiated cells which have the potential to differentiate into specialized cell types (such as specific types of skin, muscle, blood cells, etc.). They are capable of multiplying indefinitely, as long as the person is alive. Yet, stem cells in the human body undergo aging, and as we grow old, our body gradually loses its capacity to renew tissues.

Stem cell – based skincare products
For the beauty-conscious, aging means that the renewal of skin cells slows down (due to the aging of our skin’s stem cells). Wrinkles start to appear and wounds or scars take longer to heal. The cosmetic industry has now come up with a new solution: To use stem cell-based products to stimulate our own skin’s stem cells to regenerate and live longer.

Not all stem cell-based products are the same. In fact, their ingredients vary greatly. Here are the different types of active ingredients in products which are marketed as “stem cell-based”:
1.       Plant-derived stem cell extracts
Plant stem cells are mainly found in the tips of the shoot & roots, and in the stems of a plant. Just in case you would like to know. If I didn’t interpret wrongly from this Yahoo article, L’Oreal’s Age Perfect Cell Renew range contains plant stem cell extracts.
2.       Human-derived stem cell extracts
Don’t worry, they don’t use embryonic stem cells. Some products use adult human stem cells. One famous brand, Lifeline, which has been mentioned in several beauty articles on the Internet, uses stem cells developed from unfertilized human eggs. Now, would you like to apply some cream made of unfertilized eggs donated by an anonymous lady from somewhere out there?
3.       Proteins secreted by stem cells
Meaning, the stem cells themselves are not used in the product. Stem cells are grown in a liquid medium, and that liquid medium bathing the cells is collected. To be honest, I don’t know of any particular brand of product that uses this, but I do know that the method has been patented.

What is the science behind stem cells in skin care?
I tried to search for scientific literature studying the use of stem cells in cosmetic products and came up with ZERO results. I repeat: ZERO results, whether it's for plant/animal/human-derived stem cell products. Sure, some companies do mention on their websites that their product has shown great results in a study, but then these results are not made available to the public or even to the scientific community. Sounds rather suspicious, don’t you think?

Let’s think about the plausibility of their claims. Take a look at a statement from Lifeline (taken from the Lifeline website):
“Scientists at Lifeline Skin Care discovered that human non-embryonic stem cell extracts can renew skin -- by replacing old cells with healthy new ones.”
If scientists had truly found a way to reverse aging (i.e. to turn the old cells into healthy new ones), this would be the greatest medical breakthrough of all time. This technology would be applied in every field of medicine possible – to get younger & healthier brains, bones, muscles, etc. We would have discovered the Tree of Life, the fountain of youth. We would live forever, and never grow old. Erm… Does that sound a little less convincing now?

In the end, I believe that “stem cell-based skincare products” sound very science-y, very high-tech, but that’s all just part of marketing strategy. Somehow, stem cells have evolved over the years from being an ethically controversial issue to becoming a mysterious, sort-of trendy promise for the future of medicine (and now, cosmetics). But before we spend a fortune on scientific-sounding products, let’s do our research properly to differentiate a hoax from the real deal. 

Friday 13 September 2013

Toner, serum, emulsion, etc.

Before I got married, my skincare regimen consisted only of a facial cleanser. Oh, and an antibiotic cream for acne when I was in my teens. But ever since my hubby went to Korea and bought lots of skincare products for me, I've tried using many different products. (Otherwise they will be wasted, right?) J

For someone who’s only known what “cleanser” was, seeing all the different names of the various types of products was a confusing experience for me! These are some of the products that I commonly encounter:

Cleanser:
I guess everyone knows this! J Used for washing your face with.

Toner:
For use after cleansing, usually to remove any excess oil or makeup residue, shrink pores, and restore the pH balance of the skin.
Apparently, there is some controversy about toners nowadays, since many dermatologists and beauty editors believe that toners are not an essential part of a skincare regimen, unless you have extremely oily or acne-prone skin. (I read that here.)

Softener:
The term “softener” is more commonly found in Japanese / Korean products. Softeners are basically toners but as the name suggests, they are meant to hydrate the skin instead of drying it out.

Serum:
Serums are products containing active ingredients such as vitamins / antioxidants in high concentrations and are designed to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. Serums are meant to be applied after toner, and before moisturiser. A small amount (a few drops) would be sufficient for the whole face.

Essence:
A lighter version of serum (less concentrated).

Emulsion:
Also known as lotion, this is a moisturiser with a liquid consistency. It’s not as “heavy”/oily as creams.

Cream:
A “heavier” moisturiser with a creamy texture.

These are just the basics! I sometimes encounter other less heard-of terms which are used to describe specific products (or worse, sometimes no English words on the products), so when I don’t know how to use a product, Google is my friend! :P








Sunday 1 September 2013

Alcohols in skincare products

Today’s topic was suggested by my lovely housemate, WL! J

Should we avoid skincare products containing alcohol? There are already many articles out there on the internet discussing and debating this issue. Many articles also talk about “good” alcohols and “bad” alcohols for the skin.

Before we explore this topic further, let’s do a short revision of some ‘A’-level organic chemistry:

Chemical structures of alcohols
In chemistry, the term “alcohol” refers to any of a class of organic compounds characterized by one or more hydroxyl (−OH) groups attached to a carbon atom of an alkyl group (hydrocarbon chain, represented as R in the drawing above). (Definition from Encyclopaedia Britannica.)
The alkyl group, R, can vary in length from short hydrocarbon chains (e.g. ethanol, isopropanol) to long hydrocarbon chains (e.g. stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol).

Short chain alcohols
1.       Ethanol (also known as ethyl alcohol. It is also the major ingredient in denatured alcohol or SD alcohol.) This is the alcohol that we drink!
  
2.       Isopropanol (also known as isopropyl alcohol)

Short chain alcohols are the alcohols which are commonly said to be “bad” for the skin as they can disrupt the skin’s protective barrier and dry up the skin. In my opinion, these are not necessarily bad ingredients as they can help to dissolve active ingredients in the product & also help increase the absorption of active ingredients by the skin. (See my previous post on skin penetration enhancers.) But if you have dry skin or eczema, then you may want to avoid products containing these alcohols which can worsen the dryness.

Long chain alcohols
Due to their long hydrocarbon chains, long chain alcohols tend to be greasy/waxy and make good moisturisers. Hence, many articles call them the “good” alcohols.
1.       Cetyl Alcohol 
2.       Stearyl alcohol 
3.       Cetearyl alcohol (which is a mixture of long chain alcohols, mainly cetyl and stearyl alcohols)
4.       Lanolin Alcohol (also known as wool alcohol, produced from lanolin or “wool fat”)
A word of caution though: some people may be allergic to lanolin.

Some other alcohols…
Besides short-chain and long-chain alcohols, some other ingredients also contain “ol” or “alcohol” in their names. Here’s just a few examples:
1.       Glycols (propylene glycol, butylene glycol), glycerol (also known as glycerin)
 
Chemical structures of propylene glycol and glycerol
I suppose most people wouldn’t think of these ingredients as alcohols, but I shall include them here anyway since they are commonly found in skincare products too. LOL. Glycols have 2 –OH groups in their chemical structure, while glycerol has 3. These compounds are humectants, which bind water and help moisturise the skin.
2.       Phenoxyethanol
3.       Dichlorobenzyl alcohol (also used as an antiseptic in Strepsils lozenges!)
 
Chemical structures of phenoxyethanol and dichlorobenzyl alcohol
Both phenoxyethanol and dichlorobenzyl alcohol possess antibacterial activity, so they are sometimes used as preservatives in skincare products.
4.       Vitamins such as retinol (vitamin A), calcitriol (vitamin D), α-tocopherol (vitamin E)


From the different examples mentioned above, we can see that “alcohols” describes huge class of compounds, and different alcohols can have very different effects on our skin. I hope that this blog post has given you a better idea of some of the different types and functions of alcohols used in skincare products. J

Update: My snail cream trial

In my previous post on snail creams, I mentioned that I started my own little trial of products containing snail secretion. Well, it's been 4 weeks, and here are the results of my little "experiment" (albeit a very non-scientific one!):
  
Product: It’s Skin Prestige D’escargot special trial kit
Regimen: 
Morning: Toner & emulsion
Night: Toner & cream

(Disclaimer: This is not an advertisement for the brand! It just happens that this product is what my hubby brought back from Korea for me.)

In my Google search, I didn’t manage to find the percentage of snail secretion filtrate contained in these products. I only came across this description of the cream:
“First class luxurious cream contains mucin (snail mucus), the ingredient with superior cell restoration, moisturization, and skin trouble relieving effects, and EGF (epidermal growth factor), through the combination of which creates a synergy effect to regenerate damaged cells, the fundamental cause for skin aging.”

Oops! So I didn’t realize that the cream contains EGF (epidermal growth factor) as well… That’s another ingredient which is also claimed to repair damaged skin. Hmm. This could present a confounding factor to the results…

Without further ado, here are the results!

Under-eye area:
Under-eye area at baseline, 2 weeks and 4 weeks
Puffiness seems to have decreased. Fine lines under my eye are still present after 4 weeks, but looks slightly improved. (Honestly, I can’t tell by looking in the mirror, but the pictures seem to suggest an improvement.)
Being the skeptic that I am, I was genuinely surprised by the improvement! And happy too, of course.

Hyperpigmentation:
Hyperpigmentation on left cheek at baseline, 2 weeks and 4 weeks
No noticeable difference in the hyperpigmentation spot on my left cheek.

Old chicken pox scars:
Chicken pox scars on right cheek at baseline, 2 weeks and 4 weeks
No noticeable difference in the old chicken pox scars on my right cheek.

Conclusion:

From my own limited experience, I have come to a conclusion that snail cream is definitely not the “miracle cream” it is commonly advertised to be. However (at least for me), it did help to slightly reduce the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles. 

Sunday 25 August 2013

Skin penetration enhancers: Improving skin absorption

The skin is the largest organ of the human body. The outermost layer, called the stratum corneum, consists of dead cells which form a protective barrier to keep the bad stuff (germs & chemicals) out and the good stuff (water) in the body.
The structure of human skin

When we apply skincare products (or medicated gels/creams/ointments), we generally want the active ingredients to be able to penetrate the stratum corneum and enter into the deeper layers of the skin to exert their effect.

How do molecules cross the stratum corneum?

  1.  Intercellular route – Molecules pass through the spaces between the dead cells. This is the predominant route.
  2. Transcellular route – Molecules directly pass through the dead cells. This is the path of greatest resistance as the molecules need to penetrate the cell membranes and cell contents of the dead skin cells.
  3.  Transappendageal route – Through sweat glands or hair follicles. Since sweat glands and hair follicles occupy only 0.1% of the total human skin surface, the contribution of this route is considered to be small (although it is still important).
How molecules may cross the stratum corneum
Why is it difficult for molecules to cross the stratum corneum?
As mentioned earlier, the predominant route of transport of molecules across the stratum corneum is via the intercellular route. But the spaces in between the dead skin cells are not just empty space; these spaces are filled with lipids (cholesterol, ceramide & free fatty acids) which form the lamellar lipid bilayer. These lipids contain hydrophilic (water-loving) head groups and lipophilic (greasy, oil-loving) chains. So, in order to cross the stratum corneum, molecules must be able to cross the lamellar lipid bilayer.
Structure of the lamellar lipid bilayer

What are skin penetration enhancers?
Skin penetration enhancers are compounds that are added into the formulation of a product to enhance the delivery of its active ingredients across the skin barrier.

How do skin penetration enhancers work?
These substances work through various mechanisms:

  1.  By interacting with the hydrophilic head groups of the lipids in the lamellar lipid bilayer – this disrupts the packing order of the lipids, making it easier for active ingredient to diffuse through. (e.g. propylene glycol)
  2.  By interacting with the greasy chains of the bilayer lipids. This also disrupts the packing order of the lipids. (e.g. oleic acid)
  3. By hydrating the skin (e.g. urea)

What are some of the commonly used/studied skin penetration enhancers?
1.       Alcohols
a)      Short chain alcohols (e.g. ethanol, isopropyl alcohol)
b)      Long chain alcohols (e.g. octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecanol, lauryl alcohol, tridecanol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and linolenyl alcohol
2.       Fatty acid esters
-          Isopropyl myristate, ethyl oleate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl mono-oleate, lauryl lactate, isopropyl palmitate, methyl oleate, oleyl oleate and sorbitan mono-oleate.
3.       Glycols
-          Propylene glycol
4.       Glycol ethers
-          Transcutol®
5.       Fatty acids
-          Oleic acid
6.       Sulphoxides
-          Dimethyl sulphoxide (seldom used due to skin irritating effects)
7.       Urea and derivatives
8.       Surfactants (e.g. Tween)
9.       Terpenes (found in essential oils)


References:
1.       Lane. Int J Pharm. 2013 Apr 15;447(1-2):12-21
2.       Trommer & Neubert. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006;19(2):106-21